The Lure of H Mart, Where the Shelves Can Seem as Wide as Asia

The huge grocery chain and other megastores like it have revolutionized the way many Asian-Americans shop and eat.

At H Mart, fresh fruit is carefully wrapped and coddled, to prevent bruising.Credit…By Lanna Apisukh

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By Ligaya Mishan

At the H Mart on Broadway at 110th Street in Manhattan, the lights are bright on the singo pears, round as apples and kept snug in white mesh, so their skin won’t bruise. Here are radishes in hot pink and winter white, gnarled ginseng grown in Wisconsin, broad perilla leaves with notched edges, and almost every kind of Asian green: yu choy, bok choy, ong choy, hon choy, aa choy, wawa choy, gai lan, sook got.

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